Azores Day: 4

Fern was woken up at 7 am by the coasteering guides canceling our excursion due to ocean conditions — full moon, high tides, strong swells, all of it conspiring against us — while I was apparently snoring away. So she claims. I had taped my mouth shut and have evidence to follow. So we did what any reasonable people would do and fell back asleep.

We got up, had breakfast, planned a new day on the fly, and were out of the hotel by 11:30. The plan: a road trip around the northeast of the island.

First stop: Miradouro do Pico do Ferro — a stunning cliffside viewpoint overlooking Furnas lake and the town below. It was gloriously sunny and the colors were magnificent. It was surreal to look down at the same area we had walked around on day two (main photo at the top).

Next: Miradouro do Salto do Cavalo, reached via thirty minutes of the windiest roads we'd encountered yet. More views of Furnas town, sprawling fields, and some wind turbines. Great stop. We then descended further down winding, steep roads carved between dense Japanese cedar forests and rolling green pastures full of grazing cows, until the valley opened up to reveal Povoação — an entire town nestled inside a massive volcanic crater right up against the blue Atlantic.

Then: Cascata do Salto do Prego, a roughly 5 km hike up through streams and smaller waterfalls leading to a main waterfall with a large pool at the base. Very pretty, sunlight filtering through the trees, and we had company the entire way — chickens. Fern, drawing on her deep knowledge of Spanish cinema, said they reminded her of La Gallina Turuleca — the whacky hen — since they followed us relentlessly, flew aggressively out of bushes, and did not seem phased in the slightest when we tried batting them away with our hiking poles. I, on the other hand, found them graceful and friendly, and attempted to communicate with them. It worked. Some nearby Azorean locals were less impressed.

Once we reached the main waterfall it was truly serene — crashing water, cold mist, birds, and rainbows coming off the spray. A lovely reward for our "grueling" 5 km "climb". On the way back down I stopped to chat with two older women who asked if the uphill walk was worth it. I told them yes, that I couldn't wait for the cold air because I was hot — and they said goodbye and called me "hot girl". On the descent I did dip my feet in the stream, attempted to pet some wild bunnies, and Fern continued documenting the whole hike GoPro-strapped-to-chest POV style (see video below).

Back at the car, we fed a stray cat, and then the hunger hit. I ate a protein bar in two bites and downed all my water. Fern opted for three clementines consumed in approximately two bites, followed by cracking open a tin of clams in oil — while driving back up the steep winding roads. The oil ran down her arms, her neck, her face, and the smell filled the entire car even with the windows wide open. Every curve in the road was a new opportunity for a spill. She was not fully satisfied after finishing but said she had to pace herself. She claims her animalistic urges came out and she had the biggest smile on her face. We continued driving toward the beach.

Praia do Lombo Gordo — a black sand beach reachable only via the scariest drive of the trip: unpaved, extremely narrow, steeper than anything we'd attempted, with turns sharper than 45 degrees. The views were, naturally, stunning. We parked, walked the rest of the way down through the valley, crossed a very rickety old bridge, descended a few flights of stone stairs, and were met with an incredible view of waves crashing against lava rocks. We stood there enamored, and fully understood why coasteering had been canceled. About twenty minutes later, being the only two people there, we decided it was probably time to head back up. The car made it up the steep unpaved road. All thanks to my phenomenal driving skills.

Miradouro da Ponta da Madrugada — a little picnic spot overlooking the valley, notable primarily for its abundance of adorable cats. The cats were the highlight. We wish we had brought them treats.

Final stop: Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego — a beautifully manicured cliffside garden with stunning views of the beach we had just come from. And more cats.

We had planned to visit two tea plantations but it was getting late and we were starving — we'll save those for when we loop back to São Miguel at the end of the trip. Instead we stopped at a gas station in a tiny village, which was its own adventure. We couldn't figure out how to pay and had to ask locals, who looked genuinely baffled by us. Fern went inside to pay and took the car key with her, leaving me completely stuck and unable to move until someone showed me the emergency override. Then on the way out I hit a massive curb. Two obvious tourists in a Mercedes at a tiny village gas station. We were a sight. to Furnas valley to finally try the famous cozido — the stew cooked underground using geothermal heat. We got the vegetarian version. It had a very specific, off-key flavor that neither of us particularly loved (my reaction below), but we were genuinely happy to have beans and glad we tried it. We also got a lentil stew that was pretty good. Yay fiber!

Exhausted, we headed back to the hotel and packed for our early morning flight to Terceira Island tomorrow.

Honestly, we are impressed by our own adaptability. Great day despite the change of plans, and we are finally — finally — mastering the windy roads. Terceira, we're coming for you.

♡ Ink